Wool for a Purpose
by Pegg Thomas


There are so many different breeds of sheep that the spinner’s palette of choices is full to overflowing.  But how is a new spinner to know what to look for?  There are a few books on the subject, In Sheep’s Clothing by Jane Fournier and
Fleece in Your Hands by Beverly Horne come to mind.  (See links to Amazon.com below to find these books.)  These will give the reader good information about the breeds of sheep and the type of wool they produce.   In this article I’ll just cover a few of the basics.

Fine wools:
Fine wools are considered to be the softest wools.  These are fibers that almost everyone can wear next to their skin in a sweater.  The most popular breeds for this type of wool are Merino, Rambouillet and Targhee.  The Cormo breed is growing in popularity as well.  The only down side of this type of wool is that is lacks the long wearing toughness of other breeds.  Socks made of a fine wool will not last half as long as socks knit from a good long wool.

Long wools:
Long wools are just what they sound like, breeds of sheep that grow longer wool.  Many of these breeds are shorn twice a year.  While they are sometimes considered coarse wools due to their fiber diameter, many have a very silky hand (feel) and can be worn next to the skin.  The silkier long wools include Border Leicester, Blue-faced Leicester, Romney, Lincoln, Cotswold and Coopworth.  These wools are the sock wools!  They are the tough wearing, durable wools.  But don’t limit them to socks, try vests, hats, gloves, shawls… all sorts of things.

Down wools:
The down breeds are mainly breeds used to produce meat, rather than wool.  However, the down wools can be effectively used for hard wearing items of clothing, such as mittens and hats that need added warmth.  The down breeds produce very widely crimped wool that has wonderful insulating properties.  It is not, however, something most people would want to wear in a sweater.  The common down breeds include, Suffolk, Hampshire, Southdown, Oxford, Dorset, Shropshire and Tunis.

Double-coated wools:
The breeds that have a double coat are some of the more primitive breeds, such as Icelandic, Shetland, Karakul and Navajo-Churro.  While quite a bit of effort has gone into breeding the double coat out of many of these animals, the spinner should still be aware that they carry the potential for it.  Double coats have a long, harsh outer layer that protects these primitive breeds and a soft inner coat that keeps them warm.  The fiber diameter, texture and feel of these wools varies greatly from flock to flock, and even individual to individual.  These fleeces are best purchased when the spinner can touch, feel and evaluate the fleece, or from a known source.  Depending on the quality, the wool may be suitable from everything from next-to-the-skin wear to rugs.

Medium wools:
Medium wool is a catch-all phrase for wool that doesn’t fall into one of the other categories.  It can mean almost anything!  Breeds like Jacob, Cheviot, Finn, Polypay, Corriedale and Black Welch Mountain can be classified in this category.  These breeds are often kept as “dual purpose” sheep, meaning that they are used for both wool and meat.  How nice the wool is will depend largely on the shepherd and where he/she puts the emphasis on their breeding program.  Some shepherds with these breeds produce wonderful handspinning fibers!  The best of these breeds can easily be worn next to the skin.  Again, these fleeces are best purchased when the spinner and handle and evaluate each fleece, or from a known source.
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